Devo's Climbs

Friday, October 10, 2008

Rock Climb: Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock - Grade IV, 5.9

Date climbed: Thursday October 2, 2008

This route is old school, as in "you-better-have-all-your-sh!t-together-old-school-Yosemite-5.9." Steep and intimidating it had four - no joke - FOUR chimneys!! (oh and a couple of off-widths too...) I climbed this route with fellow AAI guides Dave and Seth, and it was a good thing because we were able to break the formidable leads into manageable portions. As it was we summited with just minutes of daylight to spare, lost the trail on the descent, bushwhacked uphill through vicious manzanita brush, and eventually called it quits and bivouaced overnight. Our experience was summarized thusly:

DAVE: "That's it, no more off-widths for one year!"
DEVIN: "Somewhere I'm bleeding."
SETH: "What, another chimney!?"

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
DEVO SENDING THE 5.9 ROOF ON PITCH 3 - THE FIRST OF MANY CRUXES

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
SETH SCOPES OUT THE "DELICATE STEP DOWN" ON PITCH 5

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
BELAY VIEW: CATHEDRAL SPIRES

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
DAVE HEADING INTO CRUX #2: THE LAND OF DREADED SQUEEZE CHIMNEYS

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
DAVE BELAYS AS SETH LEADS THE SKETCHY 5.9 STEM ON PITCH 8

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
LOOKING INTO THE VOID FROM THE BELAY ON PITCH 8

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
PITCH 9: DAVE'S TRUE FEELINGS REGARDING CHIMNEYS EMERGE

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
TIME RUNNING OUT: SUNSET ON THE VALLEY

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
SUMMIT GLORY

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
BIVOUAC: "HEY DAVE, WANT A PIECE OF THIS ACTION?"

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock 10.02.08
BACK AT THE BASE: MORNING DAWNS ON N.E.B. OF H.C.R.

More pictures from Sending the Sickness up the Wall of Hate