Devo's Blog

Friday, January 29

39 years

That's what I am today... old that is.

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Monday, January 4

Mind-reading: it's all in the lens

An interesting read over at Not Exactly Rocket Science, a study on how we view ourselves vs. others:
... our failure as mind-readers stems from an inability to look at ourselves and other people with the level of detail that they would use. Correcting this mismatch won't allow us to become true telepaths - it's not going to suddenly allow you to guess someone's favourite colours or political preferences. It should, however, help us to better understand how people see themselves or each other, especially for people who are very different, or those who are unfamiliar.

If you want to understand how others see you, put away the fine-grained details and take a "big picture" look at yourself. If you're worried that other people will judge you too harshly for a mistake, try to zoom away from the details of the blunder and look at the various bits of info that people take into account when thinking about you. Likewise, if you want to understand how others see themselves, shelve the generalities that you would use and start focusing in on the minutiae that they pay attention to.
Read the full post »

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Wednesday, December 9

Automobile challenged

Been without my car for a few days - noticed water leaking into the trunk so I took it in Tuesday to get it looked at. Needs a new trunk seal but that had to be ordered and won't be ready until Thursday or Friday. Sounds like there may be some leaks in the body panels as well, likely related to a hit-and-run accident several years back. I'm hoping the collision repair service that did the original work will fix the leaks under warranty, but that's another appointment I'll have to make and wait around for. Meanwhile I'm sticking around Everett and riding my bike to work - means I haven't seen Rosann since Monday.
:-(

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Feed maintenance

I had some issues with my blog's RSS feed and had to monkey around with it, the end result being that if you were a subscriber your feed was likely dropped and you will have to subscribe again. FYI - I added a feed on my climbs page if you would like to subscribe to my trip reports.

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Wednesday, November 18

Winter Routine

As the wet weather settles in so I've been settling into my routine at the VW: climbing indoors 3-4 times a week, working the old "grippers" back into shape. Been pretty sore of late but I'm getting strong again, that's nice.

Rosann and I decided to forgo ski passes at Stevens Pass this season, so I'm hoping to do more backcountry skiing this year. We did however book a week vacation to Red Rocks, NV in late April - so that should be fun. I've never been there - never been to Las Vegas even.

Re: work, I've been getting enough hours at Vertical World to stay on top of things. I've been talking with the manager about a plan for next summer where I work for VW three days a week and guide for Alpine Ascents the remaining four. He seemed pretty stoked on the idea - it would create some stability for both of us and still allow me to make some good money with Alpine - he was even open to me doing a Denali expedition. Will have to coordinate with AAI of course, but don't think that will be difficult. Speaking of which, Alpine recently inquired as to my interest in doing a Denali trip in June-July next year, so looks like I'll get another chance to guide it. Hope I actually get on the mountain this time!

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Website Overhauled - New Look

Been busy redesigning my website: updating the look and feel, streamlining it a bit. I'll be tweaking some small things still, but the major work is completed. I think it's pretty snazzy - hope you like it.

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Tuesday, December 23

One down, one to go

Surgery to remove my cataract was completed Monday - it went well. Didn't really improve my overall vision, but at least there isn't a dead spot in the middle of my eye now. I've been told that the surgery to remove the oil in my eye will happen next Tuesday, but I haven't actually been assigned a time yet, so I'm still crossing my fingers...

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Tuesday, November 25

December is "go time"

My cataract surgery has been scheduled: the morning of Monday Dec 22. I've been told that I should be able to go to work the following day, so it shouldn't put a damper on Christmas. I've got a Dec 1 pre-op appointment w/ the surgeon who will remove the oil in my eye - the operation could be on Dec 9, 16, or even the 23rd. Either way, it looks like everything will be taken care of before year's end - whew! I've been getting enough hours at VW to keep things going - a welcome relief that hopefully continues. Now if it would just start snowing so I can go skiing!

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Thursday, November 6

Eye on the $

For those who occasionally check in on me, here's wazzup:

With the early darkness and persistent rain, the outdoor climbing season looks to be over and the indoor one begins (sigh)... Hope it's snowing at the pass, I wanna' got skiing!

The eye: I've been waiting to have another operation: 1) the oil that the surgeon filled it with during the first operation needs to be removed and 2) a cataract has formed (a side effect of the first operation) and needs to be repaired. So even though the retina is healed, my left eye is - for all intents and purposes - useless until (hopefully) this final (cross my fingers) operation. Bit frustrating but that's how it goes. Not sure when the operation will happen, hopefully sooner than later...

The job: Vertical World let us know they will be cutting hours due to the economic downturn. This could make things pretty tough: I'm currently working a bare minimum as it is. Would be hard to work less, especially with eye operations to pay for. Not sure what my reduced hours will look like, but it will likely affect my medical benefits. I've been pondering getting my own coverage but that could be tricky on a reduced income...

So I'm doing some self examination, trying to pinch money where I can and thinking of income alternatives until guiding season begins again. If you've got a spare moment in your day, I'd appreciate any thought/prayer sent my way.

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Friday, October 10

Fri eve @ the VW

Back from Yo Valley - always a shock trying to fit back into city life - it's been a few days and I'm still struggling to settling in...

Worked a few days at the gym this week - doing a shift at the front desk at this moment. Everett is so NOT a hopping place - I'm passing time editing Yosemite photos. Again, why do I ever leave that place?

Yosemite highlights:
  • East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock - my first Grade IV
  • Flashing my first Yosemite 5.10d (on top rope, of course)
  • Climbing Royal Arches again - so fun!
  • Leading Church Bowl Lieback (5.8) using only one set of nuts (as per Valley hard-man Steve Roper)
  • Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock - my second Grade IV and first forced bivouac - a grand adventure all in all (trip report)

When is ski season gonna' begin?

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Saturday, June 14

Eye update

I'm doing gear checks for Muir climbs every other evening so I've got some income. Doc said I could start guiding in two weeks (June 28). Can't see much at all out of my left eye, hope that improves a lot - full recovery typically is 3-4 months. All my lab tests came back negative, so there isn't any systemic disease that caused all this - just some underlying inflammation and a dose of bad luck. That's good news, hopefully this just is a one-time occurrence and I can return to my active lifestyle without any worry.

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Friday, June 6

Post-op

Surgery went well, though longer than expected. The vitreous in my eye was thicker than normal the surgeon said. I have to spend the next few days with my head faced toward the floor - makes sleeping, eating and just about everything else very tedious. I have an appointment w/ my surgeon this afternoon - will know more then. Thanks for all the thoughts and prayers!

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Wednesday, June 4

Downtime

Ain't got much to do but wait until my surgery tomorrow - not used to the inactivity. Passing the hours listening to my new eMusic downloads: Calexico, Pete Namlook & Tetsu Inoue, Klaus Schulze, Terry Gibbs; browsing the internet, reading up on retinal detachment; wondering why the Mariners suck so bad this year. Sounds like I'll be able to continue working some for Alpine Ascents doing gear checks - I'll know more after my post-op meeting with my surgeon on Friday, but that gives me some hope that I can keep my boat afloat until I can guide again. I've received many messages of support from friends and family - much appreciated, thank you all. :)

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Monday, June 2

Setback

Finally got to the summit of Rainier this last trip - a 4 day climb via the Kautz Ice Chute. Had good weather, very little wind and an excellent view from the top. My next trip was to be my first as a lead guide - again via the Kautz - but I'd been having some blurry vision in my left eye over the past few weeks, so I spoke to my eye doc over the weekend. He told me to cancel my climb and see him first thing Monday morning whereupon he referred me to a retina specialist who informed me I have a detached retina that requires surgery. So now, instead of guiding Rainier and going to Alaska to guide Denali, I'm having eye surgery on Thursday with an expected recovery of 3-4 weeks. Can't describe how disappointed I feel right now.

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Tuesday, April 15

Where's Devo?

Announcing a new addition to my climbing page: I'm gonna be gone a lot this summer guiding, so if you ever find yourself wondering where I'm at at a particular time, take a look at my climbing calendar.

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Wednesday, February 27

Skiing & climbing; hellos & goodbyes

Got to climb and ski last weekend. Rosann and I went to Stevens Pass on Saturday. No new snow and the runs were bulletproof - not the best conditions, but we still had a fun day together. Rosann's one cute ski bunny. :)

Stevens Pass 02.23.08
ROSANN RIDING DAISY CHAIR

Stevens Pass 02.23.08
DEVO ON DAISY

I even shot some video of Rosann skiing:


On Sunday I went rock climbing at Index with Kurt - full report is on my climbs page.

On Monday I said goodbye to Joe, my manager at Vertical World Everett, who's moving to North Carolina. KJ, manager at the Redmond climbing gym will be our interim manager and it appears we're in good hands, but change is... well, change.

Steff Sanvik, a close family friend and my church choir director who has been battling a serious liver condition and was at one time hoping to receive a liver transplant, passed away Monday afternoon. It's been quite an ordeal and a bit of a shock for his family and friends. Steff was a spirited musician, choir director, and band teacher. He will be sorely missed. I'm honored to play at his memorial service.

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Wednesday, January 9

Devo doings...

Skiing, skiing and more skiing! I ponied up for a season's pass at Stevens Pass this year and it's paying off big time: could be setting new snowfall records this year. My goal is to hit the slopes every Tuesday and Thursday with the occasional weekend foray with Rosann. Gotta work them legs into shape for back country skiing! I'm taking an Avalanche Level 2 class next week at Snoqualmie Pass for four days - part of my continuing education as an outdoor professional - Avy 2 certification will allow me to be a lead guide for Alpine Ascents.

Been setting a lot of new routes at Vertical World - managed to reset the entire gym in about two months, averaging around 90 toprope routes and boulder problems each. Members have mentioned they're glad to have my routes back - I enjoy creating them, glad they enjoy climbing them. Taught a Boy Scout climbing merit badge class last Sunday and prior to class the Scout Master informed his scouts that we "teach an excellent course and they would get better, more professional training here than in any Boy Scout climbing program." That was quite an unexpected (and welcome)compliment.

Rosann and I are doing well - she's sweet, easygoing and fun. She also enjoys skiing with me even though she hasn't gone off the Daisy run yet. Doesn't even mind me taking off and skiing by myself a bit - I appreciate that more than she probably knows.

Had my nephew Luc and his cousin Xerxes at the climbing gym on Monday. First time for Xerxes, but he took to it right off (he's five); Luc was distracted and fussy this go around (he's two). Grandparents on both sides were present and plenty of pictures were taken, maybe that was part of it.

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